In conditions of high humidity, sharp temperature fluctuations, and heat, fungal infections rapidly develop on the bushes. It is important to notice alarming symptoms in time and prevent the disease from taking over the entire rose garden. Together with rose expert Ekaterina Pryannik, we analyze what diseases threaten the "queen of flowers" in Latvia in July and what can be done. **What diseases attack roses in July** Among the summer troubles, black spot, rust, gray mold, and powdery mildew stand out. "Black spot manifests itself with round black-brown spots with radiating edges — first on the upper side of the leaves, and then it leads to yellowing and dropping of leaves, starting from the lower tier of the bush," the expert explains. "Rust appears as orange-yellow pustules on the underside of the leaf and yellowish spots on top: the affected leaf curls and dries out. Gray mold is recognizable by a fluffy gray coating on buds, flowers, and young shoots — the diseased parts quickly rot and fall off. True powdery mildew covers leaves, shoots, and buds with a white powdery coating, causing the leaves to deform and the buds to stop opening." **False powdery mildew: the most insidious threat** But among all these threats, one of the most insidious is considered to be false powdery mildew, or downy mildew. Its treachery lies in the deceptively harmless initial signs: small purple spots on the leaves initially do not cause alarm. "They appear on the upper part of the bush and then gradually spread downward and even move to the stems," Pryannik explains. "If no measures are taken, the disease progresses rapidly: the plant can become completely bare and die, putting the entire rose garden at risk." Red-brown spots of various shapes and sizes appear on the upper side of the leaves. **How to treat false powdery mildew** In the early stages and as a preventive measure, a solution of calcined soda with soap can be used: dissolve 10 g of soda in 2 liters of hot water and add a teaspoon of soap flakes or liquid soap. After cooling, spray the bushes with the solution, paying attention to the underside of the leaves, and repeat the treatment every 6–8 days — a total of 2–3 times. An ash infusion has also proven effective: pour 200 g of wood ash into 5 liters of water at a temperature of 35–40 °C, infuse for 4–5 days with daily stirring, then strain, add a tablespoon of soap flakes, and spray the plants every 2 days (no more than three treatments). The remaining ash can be used for watering at the root. Another simple but effective option is a solution of whey or milk in a ratio of 1:10 with water. It forms a thin film on the leaves that prevents spore germination, and it is applied every 5–7 days until the signs of the disease disappear. An onion peel infusion (100 g in 5 liters of hot water, infuse for 1–2 days) strengthens the plants' immunity and suppresses pathogenic microflora. **Prevention: how to protect the rose garden** Regular inspection of the bushes allows for the early detection of alarming symptoms before they become a widespread problem. Removing fallen and diseased leaves, as well as burning them, is a mandatory step: fungal spores hibernate in plant debris and can reinfect healthy plants. It is important not to overcrowd the plantings: there should be enough space between the bushes for air circulation — this reduces humidity inside the bush and decreases the risk of fungal diseases. Watering should be done strictly at the root, avoiding water on the foliage, and potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (potassium sulfate, superphosphate, kalimagnesia) make plant tissues denser and more resistant to infections. Remember that before using any preparations, it is necessary to read the instructions carefully, strictly adhere to dosages, and consider waiting periods. When working with chemical agents, always use gloves, goggles, and a respirator, and carry out treatments in calm weather — preferably early in the morning or after sunset.